Chromium oxide strop paste12/28/2023 ![]() Or try ceramic, which had the same convenience. Try a finer diamond before the strop, if this is the way for you. It is still a fine way to get a sharp edge, we are talking margins here, but waterstones trump it.īig jumps in grit size slow the process, and I believe the lower point count of abrasive in diamond compared to India oilstones (or Washita, Arkansas, etc.) and waterstones, makes diamond stones effectively coarser. Theoretically the Chrome oxide is finer, but only just, and the higher angle achieved by stropping on leather negates the tiny advantage. The quicker and better edge is with the waterstones. Alternatively I use 1200 then 8000 waterstones, no strop. After grinding, I use fine India, Welsh slate and a strop with chromium oxide. I keep two sharpening regimens, because I was brought up with oilstones. But an 8000 grit is quicker, polishes nicely and keeps the intended angle, if OCD requires it. Not a terrible thing, it increases the bevel a few degrees and this can sometimes be advantageous if your tool's edge chips a bit. Stropping tends to dub the edge, even on MDF but particularly on leather. Go for a 6000 or 8000 Waterstone and don't bother with stropping. ![]() ![]() Beyond that is only useful for shaving your face (and we use a linen to clean up a razor edge - you could do fine with autosol and then linen). I think your best bet in getting something functional is a bare leather strop and learning how to use it to clean up the work of the autosol. You have some chance of creating a mock wear profile when applying all of these different edge chasing steps. If all of this is sounding like a screw-around game, it is. I see the comment above that 1200 grit diamond to autosol (which is roughly 3 micron aluminum oxide) is too big of a jump, but it really isn't as long as you're biasing the work of later stones to the edge without increasing angle too much. Later steps, by the way, shouldn't be working the full bevel. Note that honing compound is the final abrasive used in the sharpening process. The compound is applied to the surface and then the edge is passed over it. Many surfaces can be used with compounds, leather strops being one of the most common. Managing the wire edge is just a matter of making sure it's thin enough - which shouldn't be an issue with autosol - and then stropping it off completely and cleanly). Honing compound must be applied to a surface in order to be used. (that is, if you haven't managed the wire edge properly, an edge will often shave hair, but if you flip it over and try from the other side of the bevel, it won't. Then in the first two or four passes with a plane, you'll blast the initial work right off and be back at autosol.įunctionally, I think you're better off minding control of the wire edge off of the autosol if you want to get a truly sharp edge that shaves regardless of the orientation that it's presented to, for example, arm hair. Thing is, all they do that bare leather can't is polish.If you want nutty (and no clue why you would do this), you can go from autosol to green chrome oxide graded (not the wax stick stuff, which for all intents and purposes is just as good for sharpness on anything but a kamisori) on a semi-hard surface, and then to Kremer 110m iron oxide. Peachstone is a decent pick for most knives, and washes away even easier than pastes but it isn't as good as gunny juice. You won't get better, and you'd be unlikely to get as good. If you want to use one for polish, gunny juice is the default at this point. Even with that, the benefits are minor imo. Unless you use a strop for "touching up", there's no benefit. Well, for kitchen knives and most pocket knives. Mind you, you don't need a compound anyway. If a specific knife needs oil for storage, that would be applied, and then wiped off before the next use. Then they should be manually dried as much as possible, followed by an air dry before storage. ![]() All kitchen knives, period, should be washed with good, hot, soapy water after maintenance. You don't want your food tasting like crap. But why would anyone not wash a knife after sharpening? It isn't even about the content of the paste, stones, or oils even. Sure, if all you do is wipe down, you'd have to worry some. The pastes are easy to clean enough that you have little risk of chromium poisoning.
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